I remember back when I was a child every now and then my father would set out early in the morning with his air rifle to go bird shooting in the hills and return in the late afternoon with tiny birds hanging from his belt. It was up to mom and the housekeeper to pluck them, pick out the birdshot and roast them whole, heads and all, for dinner.
I thought they were gross and refused to touch them back then, but now, I think maybe I can. After all, they are supposed to be very tasty. Recently I actually suggested a lunch trip to this restaurant in Jongno -- one of the very few remaining establishments in Seoul that still serve roasted whole sparrows -- to a friend, and he turned down the offer, as he thought they were gross. And since I'd rather not go just by myself, the fate of the plan is currently in an uncertain place. But really, if France's former President Mitterand can bend the rules to dine on the illegal ortolans (which are just like sparrows; only classier, for some reason) for the last feast of his life, I think I can chow down on a plate of these birds, Korea's everyman-version of the hoity-toity French buntings.
They say that when dining on ortolans it's tradition to cover one's head with a napkin, to trap the delicious smell of the meat. But I know the real reason -- it's to hide one's greed for the dish from God's sight. Wonder if M. Mitterand covered his head?

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